Hiki a maʻamau hoʻi e hoʻololi i nā aila mea kanu e kahi hana i kapa ʻia he esterification. No ke aha mai ? Kainō ? E hoʻomau ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa ma hope o ka heluhelu ʻana i ka ʻatikala.

ʻO kahi aila mea kanu kahi mea momona momona wai i ka mahana wela i lawe ʻia mai kahi mea kanu oleag, ʻo ia hoʻi kahi mea kanu nona nā hua, nā hua a me nā ʻalemona i loaʻa nā lipids (momona).

No ke aha e hoihoi ai i ka papa o nā mea hoʻonani? Ma muli o ka ʻili o ka ʻili (ka epidermis) i hana ʻia i nā hunaola (keratosit) i hoʻopaʻa ʻia e ka sima o nā phospholipids, nā mea kanu koloke a me nā waikawa polyunsaturated fatty acid.

ʻO ka hapa nui o nā aila mea kanu i loko o ka polyunsaturated fatty acid, no laila ko lākou hoʻohana e hoʻoikaika i nā kūlohelohe o ka ʻili a i ʻole pani iā ​​lākou inā pilikia.

Eia nō naʻe, aia kekahi mau hoʻokoe e like me ka laʻana o ka niu i ʻōlelo ʻia he "pōhaku paʻa" a kahi i loaʻa nā momona momona momona (ʻaʻole ia e koi ʻia).

Aia ma mua o 50 mau mea kanu oleaginous mai i lawe ʻia mai nā aila puʻupaʻa a i ʻole nā ​​macerates hou a i ʻole nā ​​meaola. ʻO ka mea i hoʻohana ʻia i nā mea hoʻonani nā:

• ʻO Argan, e ulu nei ma Morocco a lawelawe i ka hoʻoheheʻe i nā aila pono;
• Ua kanu ʻia ʻo Jojoba i nā wao nahele o ʻAmelika Hema;
• ʻO Shea, mai ʻApelika mai (kahi paʻa ma ke ana wela o ka lumi);
• ʻO ke kumulāʻau ʻalemona, e noho ana a puni ke kahawai Kai Nui akā kaulana i Malaga, kahi mea e hoʻoheheʻe i nā aila pono.

Akā ʻo nā aila me nā inoa kupaianaha mai nā mea kanu he nui a he nui e ulu ana i nā kihi a pau o ka honua, ʻoi aku a ʻoi aku paha o nā mea kupanaha.

ʻO Rosehip (ʻAmelika Hema), Castor (ʻInia), Kamanja (kumulāʻau Pongolotte mai India), Camellia a i ʻole Tea (India), Sea buckthorn (Tibet), a me nā mea ʻē aʻe. . Pono mākou e kū, akā lōʻihi ka papa inoa.

Akā ʻo nā aila esterified mai ka palama (nā wahi tropical a subtropical, nā kahakai a me nā kuahiwi) a me ka niu (ʻĀsia a me Oceania).

Ma kahi lōʻihi o nā mele o nā mea kanu, e hele mai i ka esterification.

Pili ʻo Esterification i ke kemika kemika, ʻo ia ka hoʻololi ʻana o kahi mea i loko o ka ester ma o ka pane ʻana i kahi waikawa me kahi ʻalekohola a phenol paha.

I ka hana e hoihoi iā mākou ma aneʻi, esterified nā mea momona (nā ʻalemona, nā hua a i ʻole nā ​​ʻanoʻano o nā mea kanu e nīnau ʻia ana) e hoʻololi i nā aila (wai) a i ʻole nā ​​momona (solids) i mau esters. E hoʻomaopopo he waiwai ka aila ma nā unsaturated fatty acid ma mua o nā momona.

Hoʻopili ʻia nā mea momona momona o kahi aila mea kanu me kahi waiʻona momona a i ʻole kahi polyol e like me glycerol, kūlohelohe a synthetic paha.

Hiki ke hāpai ʻia kēia maneuver i ke anu a i ʻole ka wela. ʻO ke ʻano anuanu e hiki ai ke mālama i nā waiwai o nā mea (ʻimi ʻia nā "ʻelele hana") a me ka hoʻohana ʻana o nā mea hoʻoheheʻe kūlohelohe e hiki ʻole ai ke hōʻemi i ko lākou ikaika e ka dilution.

Nānā: ua kāohi ke kūlana i ka huaʻōlelo. ʻOiaʻiʻo, kūʻē ʻia nā mea hana formulate a me nā mea hoʻoholo. Hāʻawi ʻole ʻia nā lepili Organic. Hoʻomanaʻo i nā mea hoʻonani kūlohelohe e hoʻomaikaʻi i nā aila mea kanu esterified, ʻoiai nā cosmetics maʻamau e hoʻohana i nā silicones a me nā aila mineral.

Hiki mai nā aila mineral mai nā petrochemicals: heʻuʻuku lākou, kūpaʻa, palekana, me nā mana moisturizing a me nā manawa kūpono ʻole, akā me ka ʻole o ka mana nutritional a me ka ʻole o ka biodegradability. No nā silicones, synthetic lākou a pau, e hopena ana mai ka hoʻololi ʻana o ka quartz.

E hoʻomaka mākou me kahi wehewehe kūpono e hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻia ana a me ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa loa.

• ʻO kahi aila esterified kahi aila mea kanu i hoʻololi ʻia e kahi hopena kemika e hoʻonui ai i ke komo, ʻoi aku ka paʻa a me ka liʻiliʻi o ke kumukūʻai.
• ʻO ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa mua ka laʻana o ka niu a me nā aila niu i loko o nā huaora, nā phytosterols (mea kanu "waiwai") a me nā mea momona momona momona (omega 3 a me 6) e luku i ka esterification wela;
• Pili ka lua i kā lākou kumukūʻai haʻahaʻa. Akā ʻo ka hana ʻenehana o ka niu a i ʻole ka niu niu ke kuleana no ka nui o nā wao nahele, ʻo ia hoʻi ma Asia Hema-Hikina (Indonesia, Malaysia) a ma ʻApelika (Cameroon a me ka Lepupalika Kemokalaka o Kongo);
• ʻO ke kolu ka maʻalahi o ka hoʻohana ʻana: hoʻohui maʻalahi ʻia nā aila esterified i loko o nā kalima me ka hana ʻole o ka hoʻomehana mua. Hana paʻa ʻia nā kalima a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi.

No kēlā me kēia hoʻopaʻapaʻa, hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻia nā laʻana a me nā hiʻohiʻona kūʻē. Maliʻa paha ʻo ke ala ʻoi loa e loaʻa ai ka manaʻo ʻaʻole kūʻē ʻōnaehana i nā papa ʻelua o nā aila akā e noʻonoʻo pono iā lākou i kā lākou kumukūʻai, i kā lākou waiwai, i kā lākou ʻano hana e pili ana i ke kaiapuni a me nā ʻano kaiaola ʻē aʻe.

ʻO nā aila mea kanu Esterified i mea e hōʻoluʻolu i ka ʻili akā ʻaʻole ka ʻuhane. Kūkā ka naʻaupō ʻaʻole e kūʻē iā lākou akā e hoʻohana ia mau mea i kēlā me kēia no kā lākou pono ponoʻī, i hoʻohana ʻokoʻa hoʻi e like me ka makemake o ka ʻili.