Pehea a no ke aha e hoʻololi ai nā māka mākeke nui i nā mea waiwai paʻa

I kēlā me kēia kekona e hele ana kahi kalaka lole lole i ka pae ʻāina. ʻAʻole makemake nā mea kūʻai aku e kūʻai i nā huahana pili ʻole. No ka mālama ʻana i ka honua a me kā lākou ʻoihana ponoʻī, ua hoʻomaka nā mea hana lole e humuhumu i nā mea mai ka maiʻa a me nā limu

I loko o kahi hale hana e like me ka nui o kahi kahua mokulele, ua ʻoki nā mea ʻoki laser i nā ʻāpana pulupulu lōʻihi, e ʻoki ana i nā mea e lilo ai nā lima lima o nā ʻaʻahu o Zara. A hiki i ka makahiki i hala aku nei, ua hoʻohana ʻia nā ʻōpala i hāʻule i loko o nā hīnaʻi metala i mea hoʻopiha no nā lako upholstered a i hoʻouna pololei ʻia i ka pae ʻāina o ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Arteijo ma ka ʻākau o Sepania. I kēia manawa, hoʻohana ʻia lākou i cellulose, hui pū ʻia me ka fiber lāʻau, a hana i kahi mea i kapa ʻia ʻo refibra, i hoʻohana ʻia e hana i nā lole lole ʻoi aku ma mua o hoʻokahi: T-shirts, pants, tops.

He hana kēia na Inditex, ka hui nona Zara a me ʻehiku mau hōʻailona ʻē aʻe. Hōʻike lākou a pau i kahi ʻāpana o ka ʻoihana ʻenehana i ʻike ʻia no nā lole haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa e kahe ana i nā ʻaʻahu o nā mea kūʻai aku i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o kēlā me kēia kau a ma hope o kekahi mau mahina e hele i ka ʻōpala a i ʻole nā ​​papa mamao loa o nā kapa.

• Ma waho aʻe o lākou, hoʻohiki ʻo Gap e hoʻohana wale i nā kauā mai nā mahiʻai organik a i ʻole nā ​​​​ʻoihana e hōʻino ʻole i ke kaiapuni e 2021;
• ʻO ka hui Kepani ʻo Fast Retailing, nona ka Uniqlo, ke hoʻāʻo nei me ka hoʻoponopono laser e hōʻemi i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka wai a me nā kemika i nā jeans pilikia;
• Ke hoʻopukapuka nei ʻo Hennes & Mauritz ʻo Suedena i nā ʻoihana hoʻomaka e hoʻomohala i nā ʻenehana hoʻoheheʻe ʻōpala a me ka hana ʻana i nā mea mai nā mea kuʻuna ʻole, e like me ka mushroom mycelium.

Ke hoʻohana nei ka ʻoihana $3 trillion i ka nui o ka pulupulu, ka wai a me ka uila e hana i 100 biliona ʻāpana lole a me nā mea pono i kēlā me kēia makahiki, 60% o ia mau mea, e like me McKinsey, e kiola ʻia i loko o hoʻokahi makahiki. ʻO ka liʻiliʻi ma mua o 1% o nā mea i hana ʻia e hana hou ʻia i mea hou, ʻae ʻo Rob Opsomer, he limahana o ka hui noiʻi Pelekane ʻo Ellen MacArthur Foundation. "Ma kahi o kahi kaʻa holo lole lole e hele i ka ʻāina i kēlā me kēia kekona," wahi āna.

Ma 2016, ua hana ʻo Inditex i 1,4 miliona mau lole. Ua kōkua kēia wikiwiki o ka hana ʻana i ka ʻoihana e hoʻonui i kāna kumukūʻai mākeke ma kahi o ʻelima mau manawa i nā makahiki i hala. Akā i kēia manawa ua lohi ka ulu ʻana o ka mākeke: nā millennials, ka poʻe loiloi i ka hopena o ka "wikiwiki wikiwiki" i ke kaiapuni, makemake e uku no nā ʻike a me nā manaʻo, ma mua o nā mea. Ua hāʻule ka loaʻa kālā o Inditex a me H&M ma mua o nā mea i manaʻo ʻia i nā makahiki i hala iho nei, a ua emi nā māhele mākeke o nā hui ma kahi o ka hapakolu i ka makahiki 2018. "ʻAʻole kā lākou ʻoihana ʻoihana ʻaʻole ʻōpala," wahi a Edwin Ke, Luna Nui o ka Hong Kong Light. Keʻena noiʻi ʻoihana. "Akā ua lawa nā mea āpau iā mākou."

ʻO ke ʻano o ka hoʻohana ʻana i ke kuleana e kuhikuhi i kāna mau kūlana ponoʻī: ʻo kēlā mau hui e hoʻololi i ka hana ʻona ʻole i ka manawa hiki ke loaʻa ka lanakila hoʻokūkū. No ka hōʻemi ʻana i ka nui o ka ʻōpala, ua hoʻokomo nā mea kūʻai aku i nā pahu kūikawā ma nā hale kūʻai he nui kahi e waiho ai nā mea kūʻai aku i nā mea e hoʻouna ʻia no ka hana hou ʻana.

Manaʻo ʻo Jill Standish, kākāʻōlelo kūʻai kūʻai ʻo Accenture e hiki i nā ʻoihana e hana i nā lole hoʻomau ke huki i nā mea kūʻai aku. "ʻO kahi ʻeke i hana ʻia i nā lau waina a i ʻole kahi lole i hana ʻia i ka ʻili ʻalani ʻaʻole ia he mea wale nō, aia kekahi moʻolelo hoihoi ma hope o lākou," wahi āna.

Manaʻo ʻo H&M e hana i nā mea āpau mai nā mea hana hou a hoʻomau i ka makahiki 2030 (ʻo ia ka māhele o ia mau mea he 35%). Mai ka makahiki 2015, ke kākoʻo nei ka hui i ka hoʻokūkū no nā hoʻomaka e kōkua ana nā ʻenehana i ka hōʻemi i ka hopena maikaʻi ʻole o ka ʻoihana hana i ke kaiapuni. Hoʻokūkū ka poʻe hoʻokūkū no kahi haʻawina € 1 miliona ($1,2 miliona). ʻO kekahi o nā mea lanakila o ka makahiki i hala, ʻo ia ʻo Smart Stitch, nāna i hoʻomohala i kahi kaula e hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i nā wela kiʻekiʻe. E kōkua ana kēia ʻenehana i ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i nā mea, e hoʻomaʻamaʻa i ke kaʻina hana o ka wehe ʻana i nā pihi a me nā zippers mai nā lole. Ua aʻo ʻo Startup Crop-A-Porter i ke ʻano o ka hana ʻana i ka wili mai ka ʻōpala mai nā mea kanu flax, maiʻa a me nā paina. Ua hoʻokumu kekahi mea hoʻokūkū i ka ʻenehana e hoʻokaʻawale i nā fiber o nā mea like ʻole i ka wā e hana ai i nā lole i hui pū ʻia, aʻo nā mea hoʻomaka ʻē aʻe e hana i nā lole mai nā halo a me nā algae.

I ka makahiki 2017, hoʻomaka ʻo Inditex e hana hou i nā lole kahiko i kapa ʻia nā ʻāpana me ka mōʻaukala. ʻO ka hopena o nā hoʻāʻo ʻana a pau o ka ʻoihana ma ke kahua o ka hana kuleana (nā mea i hana ʻia mai ka pulupulu organik, ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā ribbed a me nā mea ʻē aʻe eco-materials) ʻo ia ka laina lole ʻo Join Life. I ka makahiki 2017, ua puka mai ka 50% mau mea hou aʻe ma lalo o kēia brand, akā i ka huina kūʻai o Inditex, ʻaʻole i ʻoi aku ka nui o nā lole ma mua o 10%. No ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka hana ʻana o nā lole paʻa, kākoʻo ka hui i ka noiʻi ma Massachusetts Institute of Technology a me kekahi mau kula ʻo Sepania.

ʻO kekahi o nā ʻenehana a ka poʻe noiʻi e hana nei, ʻo ia ka hana ʻana i nā lole mai nā huahana o ka hana lāʻau me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka paʻi 3D. Ke aʻo nei nā kānaka ʻepekema ʻē aʻe e hoʻokaʻawale i nā kaula pulupulu mai nā fiber polyester i ka hana ʻana i nā lole i hui ʻia.

"Ke hoʻāʻo nei mākou e ʻimi i nā mana ʻōmaʻomaʻo o nā mea āpau," wahi a German Garcia Ibáñez, nāna e mālama i ka hana hou ʻana ma Inditex. Wahi a ia, ʻo ka jeans i hana ʻia mai nā mea hana hou i kēia manawa he 15% wale nō ka pulupulu i hana hou ʻia - pau nā lole kahiko a pono e hui pū ʻia me nā mea hou.

Wahi a Inditex a me H&M, ua uhi nā hui i nā kumukūʻai hou e pili ana i ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā lole i hana hou ʻia a hoʻihoʻi hou ʻia. E like ke kumu kūʻai o nā mea hui Life me nā lole ʻē aʻe ma nā hale kūʻai Zara: kūʻai aku nā pālule ma lalo o $10, ʻoiai ʻaʻole i ʻoi aku ke kumu kūʻai o nā pālule ma mua o $40. Ke kamaʻilio pū nei ʻo H&M e pili ana i kona manaʻo e mālama i nā kumukūʻai haʻahaʻa no nā lole i hana ʻia mai nā mea hoʻomau, ke manaʻo nei ka hui me ka ulu ʻana o ka hana, e emi ke kumukūʻai o ia mau huahana. "Ma mua o ka koi ʻana i nā mea kūʻai aku e uku i ke kumukūʻai, ʻike wale mākou iā ia ma ke ʻano he hoʻopukapuka lōʻihi," wahi a Anna Gedda, nāna e mālama i ka hana hoʻomau ma H&M. "Ke manaʻoʻiʻo nei mākou hiki ke kūʻai aku ke ʻano ʻōmaʻomaʻo no kēlā me kēia mea kūʻai."