Inā ʻo shea, jojoba, avocado a me ka soy ka moeʻuhane o nā cosmetologists a me nā mea aloha kaiaola o ka nani a me ke olakino, pono e hele i ka kopa ma mua o ka hōʻea ʻana i kēia mau huahana i mahalo ʻia no ko lākou mau pono. Kapa ʻia ka hana ʻana o ke kopa i ka saponification. ʻO nā huahana i loaʻa mai ia mea nā mea hiki ʻole ke hoʻohana.

Mai ka Latin mai kēia huaʻōlelo: ma kahi pilikino, sapo no ke kopa a me abilis no ka hiki. No laila he huahana hiki ʻole ke lilo i kopa. No ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i ka unsaponification, pono e hoʻomaopopo mua i ke ʻano o ka saponification, ʻo ia hoʻi, ka mōʻaukala o ka hana ʻana i ke kopa.

A hiki i ke kenekulia 19, holoi mākou, hoʻokaʻawale a ʻulaʻula (ka lauoho no ka laʻana) me kahi kopa i loaʻa me nā momona holoholona (pinepine puaʻa) a mākou i hana ai me ka potash (kahi kumu i loko o ka lehu). A laila, hoʻohana mākou i nā momona mea kanu i hoʻopili ʻia me ka soda (ke kumu i loaʻa mai ka wai kai.

No ka loaʻa maikaʻi ʻana, ua hoʻololi mālie ka ʻoihana saponification wela i ka saponification anu, hana akamai akā ke hoʻi hou nei no ka mea e mālama ana i nā ʻano momona (i luku ʻia e ka wela).

E hōʻuluʻulu:

• ʻO ka mea hiki ʻole ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ka hakina koena (ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i loko o ka wai akā hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i loko o nā mea hoʻoheheʻe organik) i loaʻa ma hope o ka saponification;
• Ma kekahi hoohalike: aila a mea momona paha + soda = kopa + glycerin + non-saponifiable non-glyceridic hakina;
• ʻO ka hapa hiki ʻole o nā momona meaʻai ke loaʻa nā noi i ka cosmetology no kāna mau waiwai ola.

No ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i ka hoihoi o nā unponifiables, pono mākou e hele i loko o ka pahu: ʻelemakule a me ka ʻili o ka ʻili. Hoʻopuka ke kino i nā radical manuahi nona ka hana e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i nā ʻili ʻili. Hoʻopau lākou iā lākou iho. Akā i ka hihia o ka hana nui (pollution, paka, UV, etc.), hoʻouka lākou i nā cell a me kā lākou ʻike (elastin, collagen). Kapa ʻia kēia he "oxidative stress" no ka ʻelemakule o ka ʻili. A ʻo kēia kahi e hōʻike ai nā mea pono ʻole i kā lākou pono.

He lōʻihi ka papa inoa. E like me kā mākou i hoʻomaopopo ai, ʻo ia ka ʻaila meaʻai i hoʻohana ʻia. Loaʻa i kēlā me kēia huahana a i ʻole "active" kona mau waiwai ponoʻī. He mau waiwai no ka ʻili.

• He waiwai antioxidant koʻikoʻi nā Polyphenols (i waena o lākou, he antibacterial nā tannins, he anti-inflammatory nā flavonoids a he seboregulators nā lignans);
• ʻO nā phytosterols (kolesterol meaʻai) ke ho'ōla, hoʻoponopono a loaʻa iā lākou nā mea anti-inflammatory. Hoʻonui lākou i ka hana "pale" o ka ʻili a me ka microcirculation. Hoʻolohi lākou i ka ʻelemakule o ka ʻili;
• Hāʻawi nā Carotenoids i "nānā maikaʻi." ʻO lākou ka mea kala i nā ʻaila. He mau antioxidants kūlohelohe ikaika lākou e hana hou a hoʻoponopono i ka ʻili. Hoʻoulu lākou i ka synthesis o collagen a me photoprotectors.

Aia i loko o ka papa inoa nā huaora he nui:

• Mālama nā huaora B a hoʻoulu hou i nā pūnaewele;
• ʻO ka Vitamin C ka wikiwiki i ka ho'ōla;
• Hoʻoponopono a hoʻomaʻamaʻa ka Vitamin D i ka absorption o ka calcium. Mālama ia i ka hydration o ka ʻili;
• Mālama ka Vitamin E i ka ʻelemakule ma o kāna hana antioxidant a me ka anti-toxic;
• Hoʻopau ka Vitamin K i ka ʻulaʻula.

Hoʻohui ʻia i kēia papa inoa:

• Nā Enzymes: pale i ka ʻelemakule;
• Resinous esters: pale a ho'ōla;
• Squalenes: nā antioxidants.

ʻO ka hapa nui o nā aila a me nā momona ʻē aʻe he 2% a i ʻole ka liʻiliʻi o ka mea hiki ʻole ke hoʻohana. Akā ʻoi aku ka nui o nā mea ʻē aʻe:

• Loaʻa iā Shea butter he 15%. Ua ulu ʻo Shea a i ʻole "lāʻau pata" a i ʻole "gula wahine" ma West Africa. Hāʻawi ia i nā nati nona nā ʻalemona paʻi e hāʻawi i ka pata. Hoʻohana ʻia kēia pata e hoʻomaʻemaʻe a hoʻomāmā i ka ʻili;
• ʻO ka beeswax a me ka ʻaila Jojoba he 50%. He kanaka maoli ʻo Jojoba ma ka ʻaoʻao hema o ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa a me Mexico ʻĀkau, akā aia nā mea kanu i kēia manawa ma nā ʻāina he nui. ʻO kāna mau hua (i kapa ʻia ʻo beans a i ʻole ʻalemona) i loaʻa ka aila kupua;
• ʻIke ʻia ka ʻaila ʻavocado a me ka soya i ka lāʻau lapaʻau no ko lākou mau waiwai anti-arthritis: hoʻohana ʻia kahi lāʻau lapaʻau i ka rheumatology (osteoarthritis o ke kuli a me ka ʻūhā) a me ka stomatology akā ʻo kā lākou SMR (pono maoli) i manaʻo ʻia ʻaʻole lawa a pōʻino paha. ʻO kēia nā ISA: unponifiables o ka soya a me ka avocado i loaʻa nā hopena maikaʻi ʻole akā ʻaʻohe pōʻino i kā lākou hoʻohana ʻana.
• Pono e hoʻomaopopo ʻia ʻo nā kopa surgras nā kopa i hoʻokomo ʻia nā mea pono ʻole i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i nā mea hoʻoheheʻe organik.